Milla Handley: A Trailblazer in the California Wine Industry
The presence of women in the wine industry has never been stronger. From winemakers and vineyard owners to sommeliers and industry leaders, female professionals are making waves in what was once a male-dominated field. The number of female-owned wineries is growing, and more women are leading innovation in winemaking, sustainability, and viticulture. Among the pioneers who paved the way for this progress, few have left a mark as profound as Milla Handley, the founder of Handley Cellars and a true trailblazer in California wine history.
A Visionary Winemaker in an Untapped Region
Milla Handley spent years crafting a wine brand that remained true to both place and principle. After earning her Fermentation Science degree from the University of California at Davis in 1975—one of the first women to do so—she gained hands-on experience under Richard Arrowood at Chateau St. Jean and Jed Steele at Edmeades. In 1978, she ventured to the then-uncharted winemaking territory of Anderson Valley, captivated by its potential.
“I was captivated by the valley’s possibilities,” Milla once said. “The people here possess an independent spirit, and I felt I could follow my own path, somewhat removed from the entrenched winemaking culture. I wanted my wines to capture the essence of this extraordinary place.”
In 1982, the same year Anderson Valley was granted AVA status, Handley Cellars was founded. At the time, Anderson Valley had just six wineries and fewer than 600 acres of planted vines. Despite these challenges, Milla forged ahead, becoming the first female winemaker in the United States to establish a namesake winery.
Leading Anderson Valley into the Spotlight
Handley’s arrival in Anderson Valley marked the beginning of a new era. The valley, once seen as too cool for still wines, was best known for its sparkling wine production. However, the 1980s saw the introduction of new Pinot Noir clones that thrived in Anderson Valley’s unique climate—hot days and cool nights—making the varietal a natural fit.
Milla was instrumental in championing Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, and other varietals that would define the region. She embraced both tradition and experimentation, crafting wines that showcased the valley’s distinctive terroir. Her efforts drew attention from winemakers and investors alike, helping Anderson Valley gain recognition as one of California’s premier wine regions.
A Commitment to Sustainability and Organic Viticulture
Long before sustainable farming became a widespread movement, Milla Handley was committed to responsible land stewardship. In 2005, Handley Cellars’ estate vineyard became the first California Certified Organic vineyard in Anderson Valley. This dedication to organic practices continues today, with the winery prioritizing soil health, biodiversity, and environmentally conscious farming techniques.
A Mentor and a Community Leader
Milla Handley wasn’t just a winemaker—she was a mentor and a pillar of the Anderson Valley community. She actively supported and advised aspiring winemakers, including Kristy Charles of Foursight Wines. Handley was known for her generosity, allowing new winemakers to use her facilities and helping them navigate the challenges of the industry.
Her advocacy extended beyond winemaking. She played a key role in supporting local businesses, caterers, and charities through the Anderson Valley Winegrowers Association.
"She was one of the most community-minded people I've ever met," said Charles.
Zach Rasmuson, COO of Duckhorn Portfolio, also credits Handley for helping put Anderson Valley on the map.
"A lot of the success achieved here is due in part to her vision," he said, remembering their roadshows aimed at promoting the region on a limited budget.
A Legacy That Lives On
Milla Handley retired in 2017, leaving behind a thriving winery that continues to honor her vision. She passed away in 2020, but her impact endures. Her daughter, Milla Louisa "Lulu" McClellan, now leads Handley Cellars, ensuring that the wines remain true to their roots and that Mila’s pioneering spirit continues to shape the industry.
Anderson Valley has evolved into a world-class wine region, yet it retains its soul. Vineyards and wineries of all sizes nestle together amid redwoods and rolling hills, while Pinot Noir and Gewürztraminer thrive in the valley’s cool-climate embrace. Thanks to trailblazers like Mila Handley, the region stands as a testament to the power of vision, perseverance, and passion.
Milla Handley was more than just a winemaker—she was a pioneer, a mentor, and a force for change. Her contributions to the wine industry and Anderson Valley remain an enduring legacy, one that continues to inspire the next generation of women in wine.
Visit Handley Cellars
Handley Cellars is situated at the northwest end of the Anderson Valley on 59 acres of the original Guntly Ranch, the property still features the now-refurbished ranch house, along with the barn and water tower, all constructed in the early 20th century.
Their current winemaker, Randy Schock, the late Milla Handley's co-winemaker, crafts elegant, fruit-driven wines that pair well with a wide range of cuisines. Milla's daughter, Lulu, now oversees Handley Cellars, supported by her husband, Scott Handley, and their baby son, Golden.
Handley Cellars' charming tasting room is situated six miles northwest of Philo, California, on Highway 128. They offer tastings and tours by appointment in their garden courtyard. Visitors are invited to sample their selections and admire a unique display of folk art collected by Lulu's grandfather, Ray Handley, from various corners of the globe.